Basic Ball Python Care 2024
Basic tank requirements
Do not cohabitate your ball pythons. Most reptiles are solitary and need their own space.
Ball pythons are primarily terrestrial. However, it is now known that many ball pythons like to climb when given the opportunity. There is a large debate whether ball pythons may be semi-arboreal, especially because there have been many reports of ball pythons, especially young ones in trees/on branches. Nonetheless, whatever side of the debate you are on, we recommended that you still should be providing proper enrichment to mimic the environment they would receive in the wild, such as driftwood and branches, hides, substrate, proper above head heating, foliage to feel secure inside their terrarium, a large water bowl to soak which is changed out daily, etc.
The recommended tank size for ball pythons are 4x2x2’s. However that is the minimum, and we encourage you to provide as much space to your snake as possible! We currently feel like ball pythons need more climbing space than this, and personally recommend 6x2x2 for an adult. There are different types of enclosures you can provide for your ball python like glass tanks, or pvc tanks!
Heating and UBV lighting
Another debate when it comes to snake keeping is above heating vs below heating e.i heating pads. The most natural way for any animal to receive heat is above by the sun, basking on rocks, logs, branches etc, and to cool down they would dig down deep. We would recommend using above head heating to provide the most natural way of heat for your ball python. Some ball pythons will dig in their soil, some heating pads have been known to burn ball pythons that have done so! Always be careful whether you are using above heating or below heating!
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We do not recommend the use of colored bulbs for any reptile. Please do your research on the correct bulb and heating sources. Achieving the right temperatures will depend on the temperature of your home, and your tank size. Always make sure you are properly monitoring temperatures and if possible try and have your tank set up with your heat lamp going before you get your snake to make sure temperatures have adjusted accordingly. Make sure you are using a temp gun to make sure the surface temperature of the basking area is not too hot. Use a dimming thermostat with your above head heating to always be able to control temperatures.
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Ball pythons do best at a temperature range around 75’F-80’F for the cool side of the tank, 80’F-85’F on the warmer side of the tank and a basking area in the range of 88’F-92’F.
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Ball pythons do not need uvb to survive, however it has been shown that uvb/uva has great benefits for the wellness and overall health of diurnal and crepuscular reptiles and amphibians. There have been many studies and recommendations from experienced ball python owners and exotic vets in favor of uvb/uva lighting, we also recommend it! Your reptiles should be thriving in your care, not just thriving! We provide all of our snakes with UVB lighting fit specific for their species!
Substrates and humidity
When we first get a new intake, we always quarantine with paper towel. This aids us in being able to monitor bowel movements, help identify any mites, and provides for a cleaner and more sterile environment during their first few weeks in quarantine.
After quarantine, we move to a more suitable substrate that is able to help retain water to maintain humidity levels and to help the ball python thrive in a more natural environment now that medical factors are out of the way. The most popular for recommended substrates are;
Coconut husk, bioactive soil mix/diy soil mix, forest floor and cypress mulch. Keep in mind your substrate should be at least 4" deep!
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Ball pythons need access to proper humidity for their respiratory health, and in order to shed properly. In the wild, humidity for ball pythons fluctuates quite often, and its our job to try and mimic that as best as possible. During the day, humidity should be in the range of 60-80% and at night time the range of 80-100%. Ball pythons should also have access to a humid hide with a range of 80-100% humidity to heal aid with shedding etc. Using moistened sphagnum moss under a hide is a great way to achieve this!
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Feeding;
There are a few different ways people will thaw out their frozen feeders, one method is putting the frozen freeder in the fridge the night before feeding inside a ziplock bag, and about 15-30 minutes before feeding, place it in warm, slightly hot but not burning water to warm up. Another method is to start thawing your frozen feeder 2-3 hours before you plan on feeding by having it inside of a ziplock bag and emerge the feeder into cold water. Do this for 30 minute intervals, changing the cold water each time. This needs to be done until the feeder is fully thawed, and once thawed drain water and replace with warm water a little on the hotter side, however not burning to the touch. The feeder needs roughly 10-15 minutes in the warm water before feeding. It's important to make sure you are using the correct methods of thawing feeders for the safety of your animal. Make sure to read multiple sources, never just stick to one site. I've heard of people using a blow dryer to heat up a thawed mice/rat compared to hot water. There are many different ways to do it! Animal specific groups on facebook are a great place to connect with other animal lovers and get first hand information and ask experienced owner questions. Youtube and google are also great ways to get the latest information on care.
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The feeder you use and size of the feeder will depend on many things, like the size, weight, age, and species of snake. Mice and rats are two of the most popular feeders for domesticated snakes. However, like with most reptiles a variety is best. Chicks, and rabbits can also be popular to use as a treat/for variety. Generally speaking, a hatchling should be fed every 5 days, while a juvenile between 3-6 months should be fed weekly. An adult ball python should be fed roughly every 14 days. If feeding in variety, make sure to compare the ratio of nutrients between feeders, as some should only be fed on occasion.
